Low Bar Installation

Comprised by the riders that pioneered the Low Bar installation...


These are Low Bars from the factory mounted below the top tripleclamp...

Note: When installing Barbacks on Low bar bikes without ABS will require a longer brake hose.

All the info on this website has been gathered by me from those who have installed RD Barbacks on their bikes...according to them, in order to remove the low bars, do the following:

"For low bar bikes, ou also have to get the front wheel off the ground or the slider will try to tilt on you, according to a good BMW tech I talked to. He said with the wheel up, it would be a very simple operation.
Another tip, tell your customers to check their brake and clutch levels before installing. If fluids are low when they set the handlebar controls on a towel on the plastic, air may get into the system. It did on my clutch. Hope this may help your customers."
Tony S.
Howe, Texas

1. Remove the anti-rotation screw for each bar (under the triple clamp, toward the center). If I remember correctly, they're hex.
2. Loosen the pinch bolts on the bar and the triple clamp. Remove/replace one side at a time.
3. Raise the slider above the triple clamp. There's a wire circlip at the top of the slider - remove and retain.
4. Push the slider down through the triple clamp and the bar. Remove the bar (use a towel to protect the tank/fairing, and just lay the bar on it).
5. Push slider up through the triple clamp (may need to be moved back into alignment, but not much). Make sure there's enough slider over the triple clamp to accept Rapid's bar backs (or the original bars).Snug the triple clamp pinch bolt, but don't tighten fully.
6. Repeat for other side.

You can now move the current bars into position to check for slack. If you can finish the install w/o any add/l mods:

7. Install bar back. Don't tighten the pinch bolts.
8. Loosen triple clamp pinch bolt, and push slider up until the circlip notch is above the bar back.
9. Reinstall the circlip, and push the slider down until it stops. The circlips prevent the sliders from sliding out of the clamps (that's why you removed them in step 3). Bottom of bar back should be against top of triple clamp.
(Note: The circlips are noted here as keeping the sliders from moving down, out of the clamps before setting the sliders in place and tightening the tripoleclamp. The circlips will need to be removed again when installing the barbacks.- RD)

10. Tighten all pinch bolts to spec.
11. Repeat for other side.
12. Install bars on bar backs.

Don't try to do both sides at once; the triple clamp starts moving around, and both sliders develop minds of their own. You'll need 3 hands to realign everything.

Don't ask me how I know this.

Hope this helps. The whole operation took me 20 minutes - including time to find the darn rotation screws - and I'm a klutz...
Joe C.
Chicago, Ill.
'02 R1100SBX

Updater 05/04/06
I've done an inquiry at the Pelicanparts R1100S Tech Forumand there is alot of good feedback there now.
Here's the direct link to the discussion: Barback Longer Hose Inquisition ...
Mentioned is a BMW Parts search that is very useful called RealOEM.com.

Also, Here is a quote from one of our members about the throttle cable. it appears that replacement is not required:

"There is no need to add a new throttle cable if you tuck the cable behind the ignition key cylinder. Secure it losely with a zip tie. If it is allowed to remain in it's normal position it will cause the bike to race.
This is one area that was a little unclear when I did my research.
I was releived to know the cable didn't need replacing.

And more on the brake hose for non-ABS lowbar bikes:
(Note: It's been brought to my attention that one or both of these part #s refer to lowbar bikes going from below to above the bars only...these hoses are evidently only 1.5" longer the stock. This does not refer to using RD barbacks. Going from low bars to above plus adding RD barbacks will need a hose 3-4" longer, 4" being on the long side.
I suggest measuring for a longer hose and ordering thru another source such as Spiegler USA...this is a good time to got to steel brake lines anyway... - RD)

"Here is information from Suburban Machinery for their R11S Handlebar Riser Kit: On non ABS models a longer brake hose is required.
For Brembo calipers (99 thru Jan 2001) use BMW part # 34-32-2-331-915
For BMW EVO calipers (Feb 2001 thru today) use BMW part # 34-32-7-651-553

Info: 06/16/06 - (this is an original 1999 lowbar S)
Hi Randy,
I took some pics during the installation. Feel free to use them on your site if you want to.
Thanks again,
Chris Harris
Affordable Beemer Services LLC

info: 09/22/06 - Raising the fork tubes and the bike's geometry
Many have asked the question, so I asked it on the Pelican Parts R1100S Tech Forum.
Here's the Link - Raising Sliders vs Geometry...


Many riders ask aout the 'ani-rotation' screws and what to do with them. I always suggest doing somthing useful...

Alec Buggs of New Zealand writes:

"Hi Randy,

Bar backs arrived 3 weeks after dispatch from your end. No major problems with the fitting, although I did remove both side panels in order to get at the plastic ties securing the wiring. Also removed the throttle cable from the twist grip in order to re route it behind the ignition switch. As my bars are those that were originally under the triple clamp they had the anti rotation screw fitted.

Obviously moving them to the top meant having to do away with this, so I fitted a small piece of flat bar between the bars for 1) aesthetic reasons, but 2) mainly for safety reasons. In the future I intend replacing the flat bar with something more pleasing to the eye, but for right now it will do.

After fitting the bars I went for a 120 mile ride and I must say that it made a huge difference – no more sore wrists after 50 miles!! I am going to try and do some more mileage soon, but with our winter setting in I may have to delay it for a while.

I had intended selling bike due to the comfort issue, but now not for sale!!!

Photographs attached.

Take care."

A note on longer brake lines and torque from Hal H in Pueblo, CO

I ordered the 2 brake-line set from Spiegler 3-1/2 inches longer than stock and the fit perfectly. Also, on some of the BMWs the right front brake caliper has a fitting with a grub screw in it instead of a brake bleeder screw. I didn't notice this until I started to put the new line on. So, the project stopped until I got the bleeder. I bought it a local auto parts store. It is a M 10 -1.5.

The torque specified for the 6 mm clamping screws on the bar backs (25 n-m) is WAAAY to much for the screws. That torque is for the larger screws on the handle bar clamps. No wonder the instructions with the bar backs said to be careful with the torque wrench! The correct torque is 8 n-m. I torqued mine to 9 n-m and have had no problem with them slipping.
Thanks again for the great product.
Best regards,



Rapid Dog started back in 1981 as a BMW rider and graphic designer. Since then several iterations of employ from Aerospace Engineering to moto parts design have been the norm...

Easy Peasy

  • This simple design gave me resolve, and better ergos...
    One thing I am proud of, is these barbacks don't spoil the looks of the R1100S, You have to look real close to notice that there's much changed to the factory comfort bars. Gee, it's a subtle mod!
    It's all about how you're body fits to the bike, and we are all different.
    That said, these barbacks aren't for all S riders. But over 800 riders have tried them and love them! RD


Contact me for info via e-mail to buy a set or get on the list.

If there are set available it will be posted right here.

Otherwise, I need at least 5 riders to get a run going...

Address: PO Box 63, Acton, CA 93510
E-mail: order@rapiddog.net